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In 1950 no mountain higher than 8000 meters had ever been climbed Maurice Herzog and other members of the French Alpine Club had resolved to try Their goal was a 26493 foot Himalayan peak called Annapurna But unlike other climbs which draw on the experience of prior reconnaissan. The summit of Annapurna was a masterpiece of climbing and the book is nothing short of a bible

summary ↠ eBook or Kindle ePUB ☆ Maurice Herzog

Ftermath Although Herzog and his comrade Louis Lachenal reached the mountain's summit their descent was a nightmare of frostbite snow blindness and near death With grit and courage manifest on every page Herzog's narrative is one of the great mountain adventure stories of all ti. This is a bit of a slog until they get to Annapurna and start the summit After that point it be

Maurice Herzog ☆ 3 free read

Ce the routes up Annapurna had never been analyzed before Herzog and his team had to locate the mountain using sketchy crude maps pick out a single untried route and go for the summit Annapurna is the unforgettable account of this dramatic and heroic climb and of its harrowing a. This was one of the first adult books I read as a child about 60 yrs ago I still remember how m Cowboy to the Rescue routes up Annapurna had never been analyzed before Herzog and his team had to locate the mountain using sketchy crude maps pick out a single untried Revival - Deluxe Collection, Volume 1 route and go for the summit Annapurna is the unforgettable account of this dramatic and heroic climb and of its harrowing a. This was one of the first adult books I Child of His Heart read as a child about 60 yrs ago I still A Cowboy of Her Own remember how m

10 thoughts on “Annapurna

  1. says:

    Well written but pretty self aggrandizing account of the 1st summit of 8000 m peakOn the one hand it's cool to read about how they did things 60 years ago starting with finding the actual mountain Since no 8000 m peak had ever been climbed this was 3 yrs before HillaryTenzing on Everest nothing was a given including what face to assault and how to actually get there in the first placeLater learned Herzog forced all other members of his party to sign Non Disclosure Agreements legal waivers that prohibited them from writing personal accounts of the climb thus making his account the ONLY one out there Right there I began to have a problem with his story and it appears there are many views on this Google the 'controversy' surrounding this book if you're interested as it appears Herzog's account of his magnificent summit is suspect As for the account of 2 guys making their way updown mighty Annapurna dodging snow storms crevasses avalanches and all the other fun stuff that can happen 8000 m in the Himalaya while outfitted in 1950's gear it definitely delivers Add to this that smokes and sleeping pills were a routine part of their day and you start to get an idea of how crazy this expedition was Seen by many as the bible of mountaineering it also is a reminder that 'history' is written by the winners and those with legal contracts Apparently his summit partner Louis Lechenal was completely left out of celebrations acclaim and awards to such a degree that when you google Herzog's name there is virtually ZERO mention of himContrast that with the graceful and dignified manner that Hillary dealt with climbing Everest giving as much credit to Tenzing Norgay as himself and even going so far as to refuse to say who actually summited first to ensure neither man would gain credit over the other Speaks volumes in my opinion

  2. says:

    The writer or the translator described the events in this book in a way that made it not worth my time I was astoundingly impressed with what was accomplished considering the technology they had while smoking but found myself scanning through pages that left a lot to be desired

  3. says:

    The summit of Annapurna was a masterpiece of climbing and the book is nothing short of a bible for enthusiasts however if you’re new to the genre I would still recommend Eiger Dreams by Krakauer Its much approachable and far less studied Annapurna took a while to get off the ground both for the men tackling the rock and for the narrative They had to find and scout the mountain set up supply chains and it was all very tedious necessary and excruciating The narrative suffered for it unless you are really into rudimentary logistics as a hobby its important that’s its there it shows the scale of their feat patience and tenacity but it’s a bit tiresome to readTheir successful summit was miraculous and would not be repeated again for many years Even today in the face of the growing commercialism of Everest Annapurna remains one of the deadliest mountains having only been summited around 200 times Reading about the summit is mind boggling and fills the reader with a heady dreaminess I know there is controversy surrounding Herzog’s attitudeactions on the summit Lachenal acting like a much experienced climber noting danger signs etc but given what we now know about the effects of HAPE and debilitated thinking with decreased oxygen if it doesn’t explain some of his “out of body” experience and subseuent troubling decisions Still it is this section and the sections pertaining to the gangrene and amputations to follow that are must reads for all would be climbers This was a beautiful endeavor and while no lives were lost livelihood was it is always important to remember that the mountains can choose to exact their price whenever they choose

  4. says:

    I'm torn between one star and five Five star for the high adventure one star for how the the expedition team treated the locals This book gives account of 1950 French expedition to Annapurna where they have to actually locate the mountain first before climbing it The book itself is a page turner I practically finished the last half or in one sitting While all these are fine and dandy what is NOT okay is to force yes literally force the villagers to work as porters take the load of the expedition and even carry the injured members of the expeditions What was it to the unsuspecting labor working in a paddy field who were forced to act as coolies that these white men lost their toes trying to summit a 8000 meter mountain? What part of all the glory and pride did they gain? What good is an expedition if it has to be carried literally by slave labor?

  5. says:

    This was one of the first adult books I read as a child about 60 yrs ago I still remember how much I loved it I have recommended it to a couple of my grandchildren as a reminder that there will be many challenges in life most conuerable with determination

  6. says:

    A readable telling of the first summiting of an 8000m mountain a few years before Hillary climbed Everest with Tensing It was the days of bare footed porters climbers smoking cigarettes at any given opportunity and Indian Survey maps which only vaguely resemble to actual lie of the land In fact a chapter is devoted to wandering about attempting to locate AnnapurnaThere is some controversy over whether the climb eventuated the way this book is told where Herzog does take a lot of the glory of the expeditionRegardless of how romanticised the story told is and despite the fact I have read uite a lot of mountain climbing books I really don't fundamentally understand the personal drive reuired for climbing To me it is absolute madness to push on regardless of common sense knowing that if you somehow do survive frostbite and the loss of fingers toes or worse will render you less able to climb again in the future let alone anything elseOne thing I found strange about the translation as I suspect that is where it occurred is the constant changing of units of measure Metres feet millimetres inches miles it is just all over the show sometimes within the same sentence or paragraph Obviously a French expedition so the metric system should have been relevant Maybe Herzog himself was too used to conversing with those peoples who were still suffering the imperial system of measure given the year most had not metricated by this time There are even three hold outs today lets hear it for the USA Liberia and Myanmar

  7. says:

    I love mountaineering and this is the king of mountaineering books The story of the first 8000 meter mountain to be climbed The first to be climbed on the first try Yet Annapurna still remains the most difficult mountain on Earth to climb Maurice Herzog's team of French mountaineers suffered greatly for claiming Annapurna's summit but in the end all I could say is They just don't build men like they used to This crew of post colonialism adventurers bit off than they could handled but still managed to swallow while choking A must read for anyone even if you have no interest in mountaineering

  8. says:

    Caution This is going to be a long reviewAs pretty much summed up in the description this is the story of the first ascent of an 8000’er peak Back in 1950 there was no idea of climbing a peak of such a status The maps provided by Surveyor General of India and other governmental agencies were insufficient inaccurate and sometimes misleading With such maps and an appalling uality of climbing euipment Herzog and team made it up to the summit of the mighty Annapurna It surely was a huge feat and opened new possibilities in the field of mountaineering The book started with Herzog and team setting off from French Alpine Club The team surely looked confidant and competitive none who would lack any climbing skill I liked the way how this entire expedition was thought of The climbing from one camp to another setting up a camp going out for reconnaissance finding routes looking for possibilities all sounded highly inspiring and motivating to a climber like me It gave me a fresh outlook of how things were done in those times how a real route findingopening was done At this point Herzog looked like an elite mountaineer who knew what to do when and how to go about it The team also kept pace with his thoughts and carried on the expedition However things changed after they decided to abandon their original plan of climbing Dhaulagiri and turned their attention to Annapurna The prospect looked good But there was something about the way they climbed that troubled me I found Maurice highly dominating and somewhat a narcissist All I read in the book was about “I did this I planned this I called out for this I risked this I went through this etc” There was no “we” element in the entire account I think he just focused on what he wanted or what he felt Surprisingly everybody in the team blindly followed him even when it seemed wrong Nobody seemed to express their views I was getting a little suspicious about the entire account and searched online about this expedition Turns out that there are many conflicting views of Herzog and other climbers In fact Herzog had made all his fellow climbers sign some papers stating that no one should write their own account about the expedition for a stipulated amount of time This came in as a surprise and sadly my suspicions were confirmed Since we are talking only about this account of the ascent of Annapurna; I will rest my suspicion aside and consider this book to be a true account of the climbThere were many unsettling things in the way Herzog conducted himself After reading this book I felt that he had a habit of imposing his opinions on others highly conceited inconsiderate towards the safety of his fellow climbers Moreover he didn't even treated the Sherpas right Calling them coolies and forcing tasks over them is certainly not what a mountaineer doesA few extracts from the book “Looking all about me I felt an exhilarating sense of domination and complete confidence in our victory”“I was delighted to be able to tell them that Annapurna was practically in the bag” Coming to the story according to the hazardous situation explained about Camp V I think it was pointless to carry on the expedition beyond that It was becoming pretty obvious from the analysis of Herzog himself that the weather is uncertain it will be highly dangerous to carry on climbing that too with little pieces of information they had about climbing Annapurna Lachenal who came across as a sensible man wanted to go back to lower camps Somehow because Herzog wanted to carry on Lachenal decided to go on with him On the retreat both somehow managed to make it to Camp V but with frostbitten feet and hands The descent from Camp V to lower camps looks a little sketchy Also Herzog and Lachenal because of their medical condition hardly did anything on their own to climb down Thanks to the rest of the team and sherpas both were brought back alive But isn’t a summit of any mountain just a halfway of the entire expedition? Isn’t climbing down difficult than just ascending and summiting a peak? Will this even ualify as a true summit? I don’t know I leave this uestion to pioneer mountaineers reading my review The entire time after coming down to Camp V Herzog was only interested in his treatment and how he will get down obviously with the tremendous effort of his team and sherpas He continuously blabbered on about his medical condition paying less or no heed to what other climbers were going through Didn’t he have any moral sense of responsibility towards them? After all he was the one who lead everybody in such a disaster I didn’t see any remorse in his speech The last few chapters were full of unimportant information and Herzog’s pain and agony I kept rolling my eyes now and then as it had started to bug me Herzog’s only motivation to climb Annapurna was glory I don’t know how much love he had for mountains for climbing and for himself but glory was the only thing we was concerned with even if it meant to have it at the cost of his and his fellow climbers’ life “Henceforth only one thing would count the victory that we had brought back that would remain forever with us as a miraculous consolation”After reading this book I went into my shell to really take all this in I introspected a lot about what climbing means to me is glory important than someone’s or my own life?I will not call myself a mountaineer I am a routine climber who likes to go hiking in the Himalayas I have done a few mountaineering courses though I have been taught and have experienced living a rugged life I have felt the pain of not being able to scale a peak have rejoiced moments when I did have had a few ups and downs like every other climber This book posed a very important uestion to me Will I ever want to risk my life for glory? Will I ever want to risk all that I have for one summit? The answer is NOI do not think that any mountain summit is worth giving my life for No summitexpedition is worth risking my hands and my feet Though I will never shy away from going to THE next level I will not shy away from taking calculated risks I will not think twice if my expedition leader thinks that it is worth going for That is totally a different scenarioBut if it is already clear that proceeding for the summit means inviting danger and peril to me or my fellow climbers I will not be able to climb further I remember my instructors telling me that “if you are alive and well you can scale a peakclimb anytime The peak will not go anywhere But if you dieget injured it is impossible to come back and climb the peak”In today’s time when mountaineering has been highly commercialized I think this is the most relevant uestion and topic of all times We hear reports and news about so many accidents on Everest and other peaks where the climber did not listen to his expedition leader and put his life and his team’s life in danger We hear people climbing Everest for a record “x” number of times to claim records Today people climb only for glory and not for the love of mountains or climbing It is indeed a sad plight In this book too Herzog climbed and acclaimed glory but at what cost? He was not able to climb for the rest of his life He could have easily aborted his mission when he realized that the weather is bad and it will be perilous to go further With fresh start and fresh information the team could have easily summited next year I feel bad for the rest of the team I understand that Herzog has been acclaimed as a pioneer mountaineer but to me he came across as a total jerkThen why the 3 stars?I liked how Herzog explained how he carried on the expedition initially At that time he had a clear and a logical way to go around things The 3 stars are just for the initial chaptersRecommendations I would recommend this book to mountaineering enthusiasts to learn how reconnaisance can be carried out On the other hand also to learn what not to do in an expedition

  9. says:

    This is a bit of a slog until they get to Annapurna and start the summit After that point it becomes a gripping story A large part of me finds it hard to believe such adventures are called a success when the only reason many of the French climbing team is alive is because Sherpas literally carried them down the mountain and then all the way to India while the white men's digits were literally rotting off In fact the two who sumitted would almost certainly have died I don't think their French climbing partners would have been able to rescue them as not enough of them were in decent shape Two of them did provide critical help at Camp IV V but at a certain point it was up to the backs of the Sherpas to carry these men out Aside from the impressiveness of the physical challenge I uestion some of the decisions made high up on the mountain I know they weren't thinking straight and they knew that as well but shouldn't such experienced mountaineers realize that living to climb another day is smarter than endangering so many people to be the first at something? That perhaps keeping all your fingers and toes is a much smarter decision? That taking an extra pair of gloves in spite of the weight is a good idea? We don't reward these kinds of smart decisions in western society the holding back kind I wonder if we should There are also many moments of cultural discomfort with Herzog praising the Sherpas and coolies as he called them and then constantly admonishing them to go slowly and be careful as he is carried on their backs Towards the end of their travels it sounds like they were forcibly enlisting people to help carry things out Many of these people didn't stick around to be paid but fled when they could Herzog seems to think those who stayed were ok with being forced to labor as there were smiles all around The book also leaves me with even admiration for the modern climbers who do the solofast and lightno oxygen thing Mountaineering is always a bit of a group activity but for those who solo it as much as possible thereby limiting the risksdangers to only oneself my hat is off to them

  10. says:

    I'm not a climber I'm a tea shop trekker I've trekked walked in approx 50 of Nepal's 75 districts I love any trek where I know there's a tea shop at least every couple of hours and some place for a hot meal and a dry bed at the end of the day Ice picks and crampons are not my thing That being said I enjoyed this book immensely Even if your interest is about Nepal than the climbing I'd recommend this book It provides a pretty rare look into the Nepal of 1950 that is to say the Nepal that was not yet open to the world No roads no embassies except the British Embassy so very little exchange with the outside world These climbers set out to climb the 8000 meter peak Dhaulagiri and ended up on Annapurna I without so much as a good map to show them how to get there Half of their Sherpaporter crew was carrying nothing but coins when they started out because paper money was not accepted in the villages where they were headed Sir Edmund Hillary who just died yesterday didn't climb Everest til 1953; this climb was in 1950 It was a very very different world back then This book is as good a way as any to get a look

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